Save money on men’s fashion: use the CPW formula when you purchase clothes
photo by Carly Jane1
How many times have you faced the dilemma of locating that one piece of clothing that you’d like to include in your closet, only you didn’t have the money to buy it or you just really struggled to shell out the $300 outlay? So how can you determine that you’re getting what you’re paying for your clothes?
A look at the cost per wear formula
You’ll need to calculate the cost per wear (or CPW) since it’s the way to justify those kinds of purchases that are great to look at but difficult for the wallet to take.
How can you save money using the CPW formula? Start by dividing the actual cost of the item and make an estimation of how many times you’d wear it. When looked it in this way, you can determine if you’re going to save money or actually waste it.
- Clothing staples – These are clothes you plan on wearing for sometime, usually more than one season. The best idea is to stay below $25 CPW.
- Designer clothes – These are clothes that follow a trend, usually very current; meaning you’ll wear it a few times and then give it away. The best idea for these clothes is to stay below $15 CPW annually.
- Luxury items – These are attire pieces that are timeless and go beyond season and trend. These items have a CPW of $30 to $60.
As you see, the way to save yourself money is to determine how many times you would wear something.
Shoes and the CPW formula
No doubt shoes will make or break your outfit. For that reason, you don’t want to pinch your pennies. Look for shoes that are stylish but simple (so that you can wear it with any outfit). Most guys will wear the same shoe about 40 times annually. For example, you want to buy Salvatore Ferragamo Andrea Lace Up shoes with a retail cost of $475. Using the CPW formula, you can determine the shoes cost per wearing would be.
CPW formula – Divide $475 (cost of shoes) by 40 (amount of times on average shoes are worn); the price per wearing of shoe comes out to be $11.87.
Jeans and the CPW formula
In the current market, a great pair of jeans like Nudies are going to cost around $300. Many men would start to choke on that price but you need to remember that jeans are going to be worn often and are usually seen in a man’s wardrobe (yours too). Don’t forget that jeans can be worn at the office, the bar, clubs and home. If you live in Sydney, wearing jeans with a business shirt is common place. When you look at it closely, it’s not unreasonable for one pair of jeans to be worn in at least 60 times in a given year.
CPW formula – Divide $300 by 60 and you come up with $5 per wear. Now, that’s $5 per time you wear those pair of pants (not such a bad deal anymore, right?)
Watches and the CPW formula
Watches are a timeless and necessity accessory. Since you don’t want to be caught late to a date with a beautiful female, it’s best to go with a classic but reliable watch. After all, it’ll be something you wear on an everyday basis. There are all kinds of watch brands to choose from including the Oris TT3 Chronograph at a price of $3, 750.
CPW formula – Divide $3,750 by 365 and you come up with a price of $10.27 per day.
To sum up, bear in mind that it’s not what you spend but if you spend it wisely. You want to ensure that what you spend makes sense with the clothes that you’re buying. Use the CPW formula to help save money especially when it comes to the high price clothes.
Collars and cuffs: what to consider when you’re buying business shirts online
photo by millicent_bystander
If you’re shopping for a business shirt, you’ll find no shortage of options either online, or offline. There’s shirts with a button-collar, others that are barrel cuffed… and no matter what style they come in… the priority is always that the business shirt is the best possible quality. As people get older, their styles change; they may even have the physical marks to show the mistakes they made with their clothes. When you’re out shopping, keep in mind the different types of business shirt collar options suitable to highlight your best features.
A look at the six varieties of collars
Banded – Banded collar shirts basically means there is no collar; just a lone button that can be found at the neck. Many male celebrities have worn this type of shirt… including MacGyver.
Button-down – Shirts with this type of collars are quite popular with Mormons, consulting firms, schools, etc. This shirt should not be worn unbuttoned and you shouldn’t alter it by cutting off the buttons, trying to make it a regular shirt. You’ll still have the buttonholes in the collar area and people are going to notice.
Curved – A curved collar is just a straight collar that will curve away from the face ever so slightly. If you’re looking for a different look, you’ll find it with this kind of collar. You can find Steve Martin wearing this shirt type from time to time.
Spread – This type of collar is straight but has been so spread out that it’s no longer straight. Due to space that can be seen between the collar tips, the shirt collar is also known as cutaway. These types of shirts are usually narrower than shirts with straight collars. These shirt types are found in an array of spread distances.
Straight – The most common type of collar you’ll find being sold on the market is the standard collar. Straight collars have a number of spreads, which means the distance between collars where your tie might reside. Of course, you don’t want to choose to narrow of a spread, as it might cause some problems.
Tab – It’s not understood why there is a tab collar but it’s a collar that’s got a small snap-tab, which connects both sides of the collar together.
The idea with having so many choices of collars is to find one that you like. If you’ve got a narrow face, your best bet is to use wide collars so that you can broaden your face (make it stand out). If a man has a wide face, he should use only collars that are narrow so that the business shirt will lengthen their face.
Keep in mind that your personal preference should play out before you disregard a collar type. However, you should never just settle on any collar. Wear what you want and forget what anyone else thinks. If you look good in it and know it, wear it.
Tips and advice about cuffs
There are several options for your business shirt cuffs, however, you mainly see either built-in buttons or holes for your cufflinks. Just like the collars of men’s business shirts, your choice of cuff types should be based on your personal style. Our preference is to go for the double cuff or French cuff shirt, so you can bust out the cufflinks!
Hawaii 5-0: Beware the great mens fashion mistakes
photo by Mild Mannered
You are sure to see them anywhere you go in the world and even in commercials (on TV and on the Internet)… those nasty Hawaii 5-0 shirts that were such a fashion icon during the early 1980s and are still worn today by some people from time to time. They can hide stains and can go with any pair of pants that you have in your wardrobe, so surely that’s not so bad, right?? Not correct… Here’s a news flash on Hawaiian shirts: they are an icon, long since forgotten and were designed to be laughed at. They are not meant to represent actual style or quality, no matter how good a designer/tailor is. Do you remember the Baz Luhrmann rendition of the 1990’s Romeo and Juliet starring Leo DiCaprio? If you remember correctly, DiCaprio’s moody teenage character would wear those Hawaiian t-shirts and many people probably thought it was cool to wear those shirts as well. However, here’s something to consider: no matter how hard you try, the shirts don’t look cool, you don’t look cool in them and you’re not Leo DiCaprio… so stop trying to be.
The Hawaiian shirt is a boxy, ill fitting, have short-sleeves and too many patterns that doesn’t work for anyone who tries to wear it. Some people are under the assumption that short sleeves are not the way to go at all; other people would not agree.
If you really want to wear short-sleeve shirts, you need to maintain a simple color and make sure the pattern is small. Some men can pull this off while other men simply cannot do this. You can also choose the slim-style button down shirts that you can wear buttoned high. However, you need to make sure you wear this with some sense of style and hipness.
You also have the option to wear the shirt open or few buttons done. You certainly don’t want it to look oversized or boxy. In fact, you could simply wear tailored shorts/trousers that can give the same silhouette. Don’t wear pleats or full trousers since they can make the whole attire seem absurd. You don’t want to look like Kramer, do you? If you want to have an American 1950’s hot rod look, then consider picking out some dark indigo denim to wear with your short sleeve shirt. Match it with some brown leather shoes or white canvas slip-ons and you have yourself a good-looking, head-turning outfit. If you’d rather have long sleeve shirts, roll the sleeves up; use either light cotton or linen to bring about an air of sophistication. If you desire to do so, you can wear it like a jacket during the cool nights of those warm, sunny days.
At the end of the day, each to their own, but our advice would be to stay away from the Hawaiian shirts. Leave it up to your dad or wacky uncle to wear them, as they’re probably quite happy to be blissfully ignorant of the impact on their personal style!
What you need to know: 13 frequently asked questions on tailoring of jackets, blazers and shirts
photo by PinkMoose
How many times have you heard the saying the that clothes make the man (or woman, for that matter)? Wearing a suit that was cheap that fits you perfectly, is certainly more preferable than forking out for an Armani suit that doesn’t fit quite right.
When you’re shopping for clothes there’s always the option of having a tailor assist in making them fit just right. However, you need to know what kinds of alterations can be made and what cannot be made. You may think that your tailor has the gift to alter everything but surprise, surprise… there are just some things that cannot be altered, no matter how good your tailor is. For that reason, here are some “frequently asked questions” that we’ve heard people ask from time-to-time about basic tailoring services. We’ve also included a rough estimate in prices (prices in AUD for those viewing this from outside Australia).
1 – Can suit shoulders be made larger?
The answer to this question is no.
2 – Can suit shoulders be made smaller?
Yes, you can do this but it’s not worth it cost-wise. After all, you need to entirely re-construct your jacket so it’s always best to go with a jacket you can already fit properly into.
3 – Can your sleeves be tailored longer?
In many cases, the answer to this question is yes but it depends on how much fabric is available on the sleeves’ underside. If your jacket has surgeon’s buttons, the holes are unable to be moved or covered. However, if you want additional button holes on your extended sleeves, a good tailor can do this for you. The cost is generally $15 to $30 per sleeve; more for the additional button holes.
4 – Can suit sleeves be shortened?
The answer is yes but if the sleeve buttons are well-designed then your shortening of the sleeves could cause the holes to be too close to the sleeve’s end. Thus, great care should be given. The usual cost for this tailor aspect is up to $30 per sleeve.
5 – Is it possible to make a jacket roomier on the sides?
More often than not… the answer is going to be no. The reason is that most suits coming right off the rack don’t have seam allowances for this kind of alteration.
6 – Is it possible to make the jacket slimmer?
In no uncertain terms, yes. If you like your jacket but it’s just a bit too big then you can make this kind of improvement. The alteration costs can be up to $60.
7 – Is it possible to make a jacket longer?
Simply put… no.
8 – Can you chop a jacket so that it’s shorter?
While this can be done, it shouldn’t be done. Why? It can cause an imbalance for the pockets and buttons. However, the cost to do this can be anywhere from $80 to $100, or more.
9 – Is it possible to remove the roll at the back of the neck?
The answer is yes but you need a tailor who is experienced at this. The cost can be anywhere from $50 to $75.
10 – Can business shirts be made slimmer?
Definitely; all you need to do is cut and sew. Shirt sleeves can also be made slimmer. Costs will vary based on what you are looking for. Body: $15 to $30, Sleeves: $10 to $25.
11 – Are you able to make longer shirt sleeves?
This is a silly question but no, it’s not possible unless you have additional shoulder fabric (which in, itself, is silly to have).
12 – Can you make shirt sleeves shorter?
Yes but have a seamstress do this for you. After all, the sleeve must be removed, the fabric cut and then have the sleeve reattached. This can cost you anywhere from $20 to $35 per sleeve.
13 – Should you pay $50 to $100 for alterations on a jacket/suit that was cheap to begin with?
The answer to this final question is yes. Why look for a more expensive jacket to fit your build if you can buy a cheap jacket and have alterations done for less money than buying outright?
Business shirt fabric options
photo by Fern R
When you walk into a men’s suit shop and are ready to make your business shirt purchase (or while shopping online) you may be overwhelmed by how many fabric styles there actually are. While there’s many styles available, don’t let this intimidate you. Something to keep in mind is that although there’s been amazing advancements in fabric technology, when it comes to men’s shirts cotton fabric shirts are still the best. Why?
- First, 100% cotton is a breathable fabric
- Second, it is comfortable for you to wear
- Third, with constant care, your shirt can look its best all the time.
However, if you want something more than just the stock standard cotton business shirts, here are several other fabric material options you can pick from.
Broadcloth – Chances are you’re going to come across a fabric called broadcloth, which was once woven wool but is now using cotton (although it is quite heavy among other shirt fabrics). This fabric can be very smooth like poplin or be twilled. Weights, weaves and textures will vary with this type of fabric. However, it’s a workable fabric for formal, dress and casual shirts.
Oxford – This is one of the more popular fabrics for business shirts. After all, it’s softer but a heavy cloth with a large weave. The majority of these shirts have button down collars (considered a trademark quality). These shirts are either all cotton or a cotton-blend; great for casual or business shirts whether the sleeves are long or short. If you come across Pinpoint Oxfords, it basically means the material is lighter and smoother.
Poplin – Shirts of modern poplins are generally 100 percent cotton (although they used to be designed with a silk blend). Poplin is lighter than the broadcloth and is smoother than the Oxford fabric and is used mainly for formal wear and business shirts. The weights of these types of shirts vary based on the season. Summer shirts are generally light and a bit translucent; winter shirts are heavy but still thin when compared to other shirt weaves.
Twill – Twill fabric is much heavier than pinpoint or poplin material but it’s lighter than Oxford and broadcloth. Keep in mind that twill is similar to Oxford because of its diagonal weave. Twill cotton and cotton-blends make wonderful casual and dress shirts.
Other Shirt Fabrics – Now keep in mind that you’re going to come across some man-made fibers, all of which are tough and inexpensive. However, they don’t breathe near as well as natural fibers. These fabrics can look like the real thing or be completely awful. It’s not uncommon for manufacturers to blend natural materials in with the synthetic material.
Linen – If you always like to iron (and let’s face it… most people don’t), then linen fabric is great for men’s business shirts.
Silk – This fabric material is favored by some for men’s and women’s shirts because it’s a strong natural fiber. It does, however, but it does have some drawbacks:
- Fading when not dry cleaned
- Can stretch out of shape
- Very expensive
It’s not uncommon for men to save the silk material for ties or formal occasion shirts such as weddings, anniversaries, etc.
Something new to the fabric market
You may not know until you go shopping for business shirts and suits but there is a new selection of 100 percent cottons.
- First, the 140 broadcloth is highly desirable, as it has a high thread count and close weave.
- Second, the 100 two-ply broadcloth is closely matched in desire.
- Third, the 80 pinpoint Oxford is two-ply and quite durable; it’s also got a more obvious weave than what you see with broadcloth.
- Fourth, the 50 broadcloth is one-ply; however, it’s durable but lightweight.
- Fifth, you can find easy care or no-iron shirts in broadcloth or Oxford. You can also wear it just out of your dryer.
Business shirt fundamentals for men – shoes
Buying the right men’s business shirt
photo by Pink Sherbet
How to buy men’s business shirts: understanding what makes up a man’s long and short sleeve shirt
When you compare a man’s wardrobe to a woman’s wardrobe, it might seem that men’s business shirts have less variety, and rightfully so because generally it’s pretty true. Although men may have less variety to choose from there’s certainly enough that a man can pick and choose his own personal style. What does that mean for you? It means you can narrow down your shirt type and find a style that will speak positive volumes for you.
The fit of a man’s business shirt
Believe it or not, your shirt can either enhance your look or destroy it (and you’re likely to want the enhancement option). Keep this in mind… long sleeve shirts have two numbers. If you have a 38/84 shirt, it means the neck circumference is 38 centimeters and the long sleeves length is 84 centimeters. Short sleeve shirts are measured by their collars alone, usually with a shirt size and SS (which designates short sleeves). Waist measurements are non-existent for short sleeve shirts because most men have plenty of room.
Now neck measurements will change by increments of one centimeter while sleeves will change by one and half centimeters. When you measure your neck, do it straight up, as this will expand your neck and perhaps boost your neck up another size, which can be an added comfort. You’re going to need help to measure the sleeves. Start by placing a tape measure at the neck base, just over your spine. Next, lay it flat across the upper back to the shoulders. Finally, from your shoulder, move down the arm to your bent elbow and then further down to where your thumb will connect to the wrist. The entire length of the sleeve should be very near to half your actual height. If you want a fancier look, add on two additional centimeters.
The patterns of men’s shirt
Now, men’s business shirts actually have three basic patterns. They are:
- Regular fit – is standard and cut full to give the best comfort.
- Big/Tall fit – have several centimeters more than regular fit and are a bit wider (how much wider will depend on the shirt manufacturer).
- Slim fit – these types of shirts are actually tapered in the chest and waist areas. You may also see them called athletic or tailored fit. Chest size is about 12.5 centimeters less than the regular fit; waist size is about 15 centimeters less.
The parts of a business shirt
Looking at long sleeve shirts – Long sleeve shirts have a barrel cuff (you may also know it as the button cuff) that are closed by a button; sometimes two buttons. If you use the second button, it can help create a longer sleeve. French cuffs will need cuff links because the sleeves are folded up. Both types are great for social events, evening outings or the office. Now, bear in mind that French cuffs are generally seen with executive and elegant attire. The majority of French cuffs (and their collars) are white, regardless if the shirt has a pattern or is colored.
Looking at business shirt collars
Shirt collars have three basic styles as well. These are:
- Turn down collar – This is the standard collar on shirts. Depending on the manufacturer, the length and width of tips will vary and the flow/ebb will roll with the fashion tide. These generally have stays that are sewn in to help retain the shape.
- Button down collar – As the name would reflect, this collar type has buttons to keep the tips in their place.
- Collarless business shirts – MacGyiver was a big fan of these, but haven’t really made it into the corporate arena as of yet.