Buying the right men’s business shirt
photo by Pink Sherbet
How to buy men’s business shirts: understanding what makes up a man’s long and short sleeve shirt
When you compare a man’s wardrobe to a woman’s wardrobe, it might seem that men’s business shirts have less variety, and rightfully so because generally it’s pretty true. Although men may have less variety to choose from there’s certainly enough that a man can pick and choose his own personal style. What does that mean for you? It means you can narrow down your shirt type and find a style that will speak positive volumes for you.
The fit of a man’s business shirt
Believe it or not, your shirt can either enhance your look or destroy it (and you’re likely to want the enhancement option). Keep this in mind… long sleeve shirts have two numbers. If you have a 38/84 shirt, it means the neck circumference is 38 centimeters and the long sleeves length is 84 centimeters. Short sleeve shirts are measured by their collars alone, usually with a shirt size and SS (which designates short sleeves). Waist measurements are non-existent for short sleeve shirts because most men have plenty of room.
Now neck measurements will change by increments of one centimeter while sleeves will change by one and half centimeters. When you measure your neck, do it straight up, as this will expand your neck and perhaps boost your neck up another size, which can be an added comfort. You’re going to need help to measure the sleeves. Start by placing a tape measure at the neck base, just over your spine. Next, lay it flat across the upper back to the shoulders. Finally, from your shoulder, move down the arm to your bent elbow and then further down to where your thumb will connect to the wrist. The entire length of the sleeve should be very near to half your actual height. If you want a fancier look, add on two additional centimeters.
The patterns of men’s shirt
Now, men’s business shirts actually have three basic patterns. They are:
- Regular fit – is standard and cut full to give the best comfort.
- Big/Tall fit – have several centimeters more than regular fit and are a bit wider (how much wider will depend on the shirt manufacturer).
- Slim fit – these types of shirts are actually tapered in the chest and waist areas. You may also see them called athletic or tailored fit. Chest size is about 12.5 centimeters less than the regular fit; waist size is about 15 centimeters less.
The parts of a business shirt
Looking at long sleeve shirts – Long sleeve shirts have a barrel cuff (you may also know it as the button cuff) that are closed by a button; sometimes two buttons. If you use the second button, it can help create a longer sleeve. French cuffs will need cuff links because the sleeves are folded up. Both types are great for social events, evening outings or the office. Now, bear in mind that French cuffs are generally seen with executive and elegant attire. The majority of French cuffs (and their collars) are white, regardless if the shirt has a pattern or is colored.
Looking at business shirt collars
Shirt collars have three basic styles as well. These are:
- Turn down collar – This is the standard collar on shirts. Depending on the manufacturer, the length and width of tips will vary and the flow/ebb will roll with the fashion tide. These generally have stays that are sewn in to help retain the shape.
- Button down collar – As the name would reflect, this collar type has buttons to keep the tips in their place.
- Collarless business shirts – MacGyiver was a big fan of these, but haven’t really made it into the corporate arena as of yet.
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